As a fan of FLOUR, I was excited to hear of Chef Yogi’s latest menu – Parivartan. I loved the Aarrambh menu experience and FLOUR Parivartan did not let me down. Inspired by food from India from 1500 AD onwards, our palates once again journeyed around India’s continents through Chef Yogi’s culinary narration.
Rice crescent with herb and chilli chutney
Tartlet with cucumber mint gel and dried tomato sorbet
We start with the amuse bouche, rice crescent with herb and chilli chutney and a lovely tartlet with cucumber mint gel and dried tomato sorbet. The latter was like a salad, in one bite.
START | Jalebi, Dosa
I’m no stranger to “Jalebi”, having had them in FLOUR’s Rajasthan and Aarrambh menus. In FLOUR Parivartan, Jalebi is served with Dosa, filled with shiitake mushrooms and gruyere cheese. Unlike the regular dosa making process, Chef Yogi skipped the fermentation to allow the flavours of the mushroom and cheese to lift. A “crepe” with an Indian twist.
START | Jalebi
KER SANGRI | French beans, asparagus, raspberry purée, home made curd, tamarind drops, Greek cheese, cherry tomatoes
Fans of FLOUR’s Ker Sangri (a most delicious salad of French beans, white asparagus, Juanita cherry tomatoes, hung curd and tamarind) would be happy to see it in this menu, and it’s there for a purpose – to connect our palate to the next course, Macher Jhol.
MACHER JHOL | Miso marinated white cod, mustard sauce, smoked trout roe
We journey to West Bengal for this course, where mustard plays a predominant role in food. This course features a sweet miso steamed halibut with Dijon mustard and yogurt sauce for acidity, topped with trout roe that is smoked to give it depth and umami.
DHAL DHOKLI | Arhar lentil soup, soba noodles, scallop
DHAL DHOKLI | Arhar lentil soup, soba noodles, scallop
Dhal Dhokli is a dish from Gujarat, a continent in India that loves things spicy and sweet. The Achar lentil soup is served with soba noodles, tossed in garlic butter chilli. Scallop is added for texture and for the vegetarian option, French beans. I like how the layers slowly unfold – first, the spice from the chilli. Then the smokiness from the lentil soup and sweetness at the end, from the jaggery.
MANGO LASSI | Creamed mango pulp, caviar
Mango Lassi showcases creamed mango pulp with caviar. A delicious play of sweet and salty, that tastes like the drink, yet looks anything but. This prepares us for what’s to come next – Kebab. First timers at FLOUR would always be asked to “come with an open mind”.
KEBAB | Smoked poached mussels, yoghurt, mustard oil and sorrel
And despite me having a rather open mind when it comes to FLOUR, I did not expect this plate. Smoked poached mussels with yoghurt, mustard oil and sorrel is stated on the menu. But there are also a lot of underlying layers I tasted and discovered there is also basil in the herb puree and a hint of orange spice.
Because of the cooking method, the mussels taste of the sea but also exudes the essence of a kebab. Really delicious.
KONJU MOILEE | Tiger prawn, bird eye chilli, coconut milk
Konju Moilee showcases tiger prawns, cooked over charcoal and topped with birds eye chilli butter. It comes on a base of coconut milk flavoured with toasted mustard seeds and curry leaves – one of the best-cooked prawns I’ve eaten.
WAZWAN | Lamb Rib
WAZWAN | Rogan josh, dum aloo, sorrel sauce, pulao
We head to “Kashmir”, through Wazwan, a course of lamb rib, rogan josh, dum aloo, sorrel sauce and pulao (saffron pilaf rice). Again, the cook on the lamb is perfect – medium doneness – prepared in a tandoor at slow temperature. Seasoned with just salt, other flavours comes through from the white radish, mint leaves, chillies and walnut.
PRASAD
Spoon through the layers for an indulgent bite
Our Parivartan journey ends at Prasad. An Indian wheat confectionary with meringue, almond cream, sesame praline and pistachio. Work through the dish and get all the layers at one go – it’s delicate, indulgent and strangely comforting.
Do you have a food recommendation? Tell us!I often wonder what goes through Chef Yogi’s mind when he curates these dishes. Is he a visionary genius? Is he mad? Or a little bit of both? Regardless, you need to try it for yourself. FLOUR’s Parivartan menu is priced at RM690 per pax for 9 courses (RM495 for vegetarian option), available till November 2023.
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FLOUR Restaurant
12, Jalan Kamuning,
Off Jln Imbi,
55100 Kuala Lumpur.
Tel: 012-960 0053
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