It’s challenging for me to find the right words to describe the food by Chef Yogi of FLOUR Kuala Lumpur. Because what comes to my mind is a myriad of impression – namely character, finesse and (impeccable) timing.
All of these, FLOUR delivers to its fullest potential under the helm of Chef Yogi.
This season’s menu centres around the theme Rajasthan, which stands for “Land of Kings”. Rajasthani food is known for its spices, sweetness and royal influences – reimagined and plated according to the chef’s flair.
Every dish is unapologetically beautiful and combines the best of past and present.
We start with Jalebi with shavings of wasabi for a twist. Then Kachori – a quintessential Rajasthan snack that is filled with spicy onions and usually fried. At FLOUR, Kachori comes with onion cream and caviar, with moong lentil in the middle. Spicy and sweet from the onions, the caviar lends a luxe and savoury note to the dish.
The Achar looks nothing like an achar. But it delivers all the flavours one would expect when eating achar. Using scallop tartare, manzanilla olives and capers served leek and potato puree, I don’t know how Chef Yogi does it, but you can taste the pickling in each mouthful.
Ker Sangri is a staple in most Rajasthani households, made using Ker Berries and Sangri Beans. At FLOUR, Ker Sangri looks nothing like the traditional version but flavours are preserved and elevated through the chef’s vision of what this dish should embody.
Beans and asparagus are tossed in berry puree, with a base of Labneh and Greek cheese on top. Flavours and bright, crisp and fun; I rather enjoyed this playful twist from Chef Yogi.
Translated as “fish from Jaisamand lake”, Jaisamand Ki Machli showcases Alaskan black cod in beurre blanc with eggplant on the side. The beurre blanc is given a twist – using cloves to add to the richness of the sauce.
Bread is served right after; croissant, fig batard and brioche. It’s meant to be enjoyed with the Gatta Kadhi, a dish of yogurt-based curry and lentil balls. Made with fermented lentils, the yogurt base also contains white sesame paste for richness and depth.
FLOUR’s duck breast (Safes Mas) is beautifully executed. The cook on this is amazing – pink centre and a lovely sear on top. White meat is traditionally used but Chef Yogi replaced it with kampung duck, and in place of cream sauce is pumpkin and berries, with celeriac as the base.
Saag means seasonal leaves and this season, mustard leaves are used for the Saag Paneer. Instead of cottage cheese, the sauce is made of brie and blue cheese. The vegetables boast a smoky aroma (think wok fire), giving it character, depth and distinct flavour.
Lal Maas features charcoal grilled venison, with onion cream and papaya jam. The jam works really well to elevate the flavour of the spices from the venison. What I like about Chef Yogi’s food is the way he plays with spices – it’s present, but not overpowering. So the courses have a distinction of spices depending on concept but the main ingredients like meat and vegetables still stand out.
Rabri is a showcase of Dulce de Leche, liqueur, fruits and nuts prepared table side. Served warm, I liked how it’s “comfort in a bowl” but elegantly presented.
To end, Digestive is offered – cognac with Malaysian chocolates. Pick from coconut, chili or caramel and enjoy with the tipple of your choice. I picked XO, while Jien asked for Cordon Bleu.
FLOUR’s Rajasthan menu (RM620 per person) is full of vigour, yet embodies all the elements of what a fine dining meal should live up to. The wine pairing (RM395) is bold and exciting – definitely not the typical wine pairing one would expect for a course menu.
12, Jalan Kamuning,
Off Jalan Imbi,
55100 Kuala Lumpur.
Tel: 012-960 0053
Business hours: 6pm till 10pm (Friday 12am)