Durbar at FMS in Ipoh was recommended to me by a Facebook follower, who claims the Hainanese chicken chop served is “second to none”. I’ve been on a lookout for classic Hainanese chicken chop so I kept this place in mind and visited them on my recent pitstop in Ipoh.
Said to be the country’s oldest bar and restaurant, Durbar (a Persian derived term) at FMS (Federated Malay States) offers a variety of Hainanese favourites and also British-influenced dishes. We went there at 11am so Durbar at FMS wasn’t crowded but come 12pm, the place starts to fill up.
I ordered what I came to Durbar at FMS for – Hainanese chicken chop (RM23), which comprised seasoned and fried boneless chicken leg topped with brown onion gravy and served with crispy potato wedges.
A true classic this one; it’s been a while since I’ve had proper Hainanese chicken chop. Most places do a tomato-based gravy which is tasty is their own right but I sometimes crave an old-school version, like the one served at Durbar at FMS.
Growing up, I loved eating Chicken Maryland so I ordered one at Durbar to try (RM33). Not bad – the chicken is breaded and deep fried, and served with a slice of chicken ham, banana fritter and sausage with fries on the side. While decent, I recommend ordering the Hainanese chicken chop as that tastes better.
Fish & Chips (RM33) came recommended by our waiter and it was quite decent. The batter is crispy without being overly thick and the fish was cooked just right. Portion is a tad small but it’s a decent plate of fish & chips.
Another dish we ordered was the Chicken Cube Fried Rice (RM12) which is actually “mun fan” or Cantonese braised fried rice. The one at Durbar at FMS is surprisingly quite good and packed with wok hei. Our helper and little girls really enjoyed this.
Ambiance is nice as the place is refurbished to look like one is dining in a British colonial restaurant – timber furniture, vintage fittings and photographs of Ipoh before independence adorn the walls. Prices are slightly on the higher side but you also get (better) service, comfort and the colonial vibe.
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Ambiance: 7.5/10
Price: 6/10
Food: 7/10 (pork-free)
Verdict: Hainanese favourites done well. Dining at Durbar at FMS feels like a “blast into the past”.
Durbar at FMS
2, Jalan Sultan Idris Shah,
30000 Ipoh.
Tel: 017-797 7115
Business hours: 11am till 10pm
(closed Wednesday)
Website