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Bocado, Kuala Lumpur

by Bangsar Babe

Bocado KL’s new menu centres around Galician cuisine, inspired by the hometown of Chef Victor Santos, where cooking is rooted in tradition and simplicity, allowing the ingredients to shine. The cooking leans heavily towards grilling and slow simmering to preserve freshness, which is a refreshing change from tapas that tend to be heavier on spices, tomatoes and deep-frying.

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I’ve been to Bocado a few times before this new menu and have always enjoyed the food. With the new plates, Chef Victor is taking a more definite course towards Galician flavours, with dishes like Spanish red prawns and Galician-style octopus, both of which I really enjoyed.

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AGUACATE A LA BRASA – Grilled avocado with smoked sour cream, fresh pipirrana and coriander sprouts (RM42)

The grilled avocado salad tasted like summer. Served with smoked sour cream, fresh pipirrana and coriander sprouts, it was easy to enjoy and made for a great starter. This is typically served with octopus, so I didn’t expect it to work particularly well with avocado, but it did.

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PULPO A LA GALLEGA – Galician-style octopus served over silky potatoes with smoked paprika (RM98)

The Galician-style octopus was cooked just right, served over mashed potatoes with a dusting of paprika. Tender yet pleasantly chewy, with a nice char especially on the legs. This was a good rendition of the dish.

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GAMBA ROJA BABY – Spanish red prawns, oil-blanched (RM52 – 6pcs)

Spanish red prawns are a rare find in KL, so I was pleased to see Bocado managing to score some. These prized prawns are oil-blanched to preserve their natural sweetness and texture, and the team did a good job with them. Simple, but when the ingredient is this good, it doesn’t need much messing around.

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TARTAR GALLEGO DE TERNERA – Hand-cut Galician beef tartare with wagyu fat, anchovy butter and crisp crackers (RM62)

The hand-cut beef tartare is one of the dishes I’d come back for. It’s fresh, flavourful, fatty and crispy, with a really satisfying contrast of textures. Easily one of my favourite dishes at Bocado in terms of flavour and texture.

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TOSTA DE “MILLO” Y QUESO TETILLA – Corn toast with melted Galician Tetilla cheese and truffle (RM38)

Bocado’s corn toast comes topped with Tetilla cheese, sweet corn, baby corn and truffle oil. There’s plenty of aroma going on, with a nice balance of savoury, sweet and creamy in one bite. I also like how it’s presented, given that the original version is often just cheese and corn on plain toast.

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MAGRET DE PATO – Duck breast with chestnut purée and wild berry sauce (RM120)

The duck breast was cooked medium-rare, while the wild berry sauce brought a bold yet acidic flavour that worked well with the meat. The chestnut purée was smooth and sweet, adding another layer to the meatiness of the duck without overwhelming it.

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ARROZ DE ANGUS – Dry Spanish rice with premium Angus beef, wild mushrooms and rosemary (RM150)

I enjoyed the Arroz de Angus, especially for the rice. It’s hearty and rich from all the layers of flavour, and I like that Chef Victor went heavier on the tomato and paprika here. The crispy bottom crust was perfectly done too. The beef was nice and tender, but honestly, it was the rice that stole the show for me.

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VENTRESCA A LA BRASA – Grilled tuna belly in kimchi marinade with confit tomato (RM148)

My favourite among the mains was the grilled tuna belly, marinated in kimchi and served with confit tomato. It’s savoury and meaty, with enough acidity from the kimchi and tomato to cut through the richness of the fat. I really enjoyed this one and hope they keep it on the menu.

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FILLOAS RELLENAS – Galician-style crepes filled with chestnut pastry cream (RM38)

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BICA GALLEGA – Traditional Galician sponge cake with Fior di Latte ice cream and milk sauce (RM38)

Dessert is a choice between Galician-style crepes and sponge cake. Both are good in their own right, but if I had to pick one, it would be the crepe filled with chestnut cream. Light yet creamy, and a rather lovely way to end the meal.

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Ambiance: 7/10
Price: 6.5/10
Food: 7/10 (pork-free)
Verdict: Not your typical Spanish restaurant. I enjoyed the grilled tuna belly and beef tartare.

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Bocado KL
Ground Floor,
Bangunan ECM Libra,
8, Jalan Damansara Endah,
Bukit Damansara,
50490 Kuala Lumpur.
Tel: 012-923 3206
Website

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