Svago boasts a stunning interior, with one of the best views of the city skyline and a beautiful view of the KLCC lake and park from its balcony. A lot of planning and thought has been put into the design, colours and textures of the place, and I quite liked the eccentric outcome from use of Italian heritage-style tiling, chevron designs and ceramic brick clad columns.
Don’t be too quick to judge the food based on Svago’s interior – the food is refined but hearty. Centered on the freshness of ingredients, Svago’s menu offers freshly flown-in love seafood and fish and top quality meats.
From the selection of starters, I sampled the Seafood Bouillabaisse (RM48.80), mushroom soup, escargot and scallops – all beautifully presented and delicious in their own way. Bouillabaisse is quite robust in fish flavour, and often an acquired taste. But Svago’s toned down version is easier for more people to enjoy.
I found the Porcini Mushroom Essence (RM38.80) light and frothy, with an earthy aroma from the truffle flakes. This is definitely not for sharing; I would be reluctant to share mine.
It was my first time trying Escargots a la Bourguignonne (RM32.80) – escargots with light, herb butter sauce. Cooked just right, the escargot was lightly chewy with a tender centre. The herbs complemented the flavour of the escargot; a refreshing change from the common cheese-baked version.
rif’s Steamed Yabbies & Scallops (RM32.80) was also noteworthy. The scallops were quite fresh and succulent, and I liked how the steamed lemongrass and ginger gave the scallop a good aroma without overpowering its natural taste.
My table also shared a Pan-fried Gnocchi (RM32.80 – appetizer, RM52.80 – main course) and enjoyed it. The handmade pasta was dainty with an airy texture, and cooked till the sides were lightly crisp. I especially liked how it was lightly seasoned with butter, parmesan, basil and olives.
The Triplo Calzone (RM48.80) looked unassuming, but one bite gives you a mouthful of chicken ham, artichoke, mushroom, tomato and mozzarella. That alone, makes a substantial meal if you’re not planning to share.
My main course was good stuff – Wagyu (RM188 per serving portion: approx. 200gm), cooked tagliata style. Good quality beef is needed for a tagliata, and Svago’s Wagyu Tagliata boasts a marbling score of 6 or 7.
Each bite was tender and delicious from the fat, and the aged balsamic added a honey-sweet touch to the beef. I’m already a fan of beef tagliata, and this wagyu version raised the bar higher!
Veal Cutlet (RM128) is prepared three different ways – grilled, Milanese or Aromatica. We opted for the Milanese – coated with breadcrumbs and deep fried till golden brown and crispy. The centre remained juicy throughout. Not bad, but I prefer my dishes with a bit of sauce.
Lobster (RM42 for 100gm) was available the night I dined at Svago, so I got to try the live Boston lobster, cooked a la Thermidor. Not bad, but I was already blown away by my main dish so I was less excited about this dish. But to be fair, it was a pretty tasty dish and despite its larger size, the lobster wasn’t over or undercooked.
The Squid Ink Linguine (RM38.80 – appetizer, RM58.80 – main course) was prepared aglio olio style and topped with grilled seafood. I was told they make their pasta in-house, including the gnocchi. The noodles retained a good bite — a prerequisite for good pasta — while the seafood was fresh and nicely seasoned by the herbs and olive oil.
The Provenzale rack of lamb (RM98) was one of my favourites dishes that night. Cooked medium rare, the crusty edges sealed in the lamb juices while giving the meat flavour. If you’re big on lamb, give this a try!
For dessert, we tried the Mandarin Panna Cotta (RM28.80) and Chocolate Mousse (RM28.80). Deep and rich in flavour with a smooth texture, the latter is not available on the menu as it is a chef’s special, but expect to see it every now and then. I hope they make it a permanent feature. The panna cotta was also well prepared with a sweet aroma from the vanilla pods. This was rif’s favourite.
Overall, the dishes were quite good – some I liked better than others. It all boils down to preference as I’m a meat person and will naturally prefer meat dishes over fish. Prices are still within the affordable range; expect to pay between RM150-200 per head for a good meal.
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Food: 7/10 (pork free)
Verdict: Try the wagyu beef tagliata and rack of lamb. Good stuff!
Lot 136, First floor,
Tel: 03 2163 0188
Business hours: 12noon – 12midnight